Torpedo Bay Navy Museum Review: A Well-Designed National Museum of RNZN with an Excellent Cafe!

Torpedo Bay Navy Museum is the National Museum of the Royal New Zealand Navy (RNZN) where both children and adults can have fun and learn about the history of the RNZN. One of the other attractions at the Navy Museum is the Torpedo Bay Cafe where their eggs benedict seems to have garnered quite a fair following as well. Hence, we decided to put together a visit and share about the RNZN Navy Museum, located in Devonport Auckland!

2bearbear at Torpedo Bay Navy Museum Auckland New Zealand

About Torpedo Bay and the RNZN Navy Museum

About Torpedo Bay

“Torpedo Bay – Te Hau Kapua has attracted people through time and it’s no wonder why. Its position at the mouth of the Waitematā Harbour was long ago recognised as an excellent vantage point for defence. It also provides spectacular views for modern day café patrons and picnickers. Tucked in the South West base of Maungauika – North Head, Torpedo Bay offers shelter, both from prospective enemy fire as well as from winds off the harbour. The fertile, free draining volcanic soil was as attractive to the first settlers from Polynesia as it is to the modern inhabitants of Devonport’s waterfront villas.”

Torpedo Bay Timeline

1150
Toi Te Hautahi came to Te Hau Kapua. His grandson, Uika, settled on the hill above, so giving it the name Maungauika (Uika’s hill). It would later become known as North Head.

1350
Chief Hoturoa landed here in the Tainui Waka, part of the Great Fleet of seven waka. A hundred years later there were four volcanic cone pa sites in the area. For the next 300 years, Ngati Paoa and Ngapuhi inhabited the area at different times.

1450
There were four volcanic cone pa in the area: Takarunga – Mt Victoria, Takararo – Mt Cambria, Takamaiwaho and Kurae a Tura – Duder’s Hill.

1827
Dumont D’Urville landed L’Astrolabe in the bay. He wrote “disappointed in finding the area unpopulated”.

1835
Descendants of the Takapuna people came back to live in the area.

1858
George Beddoes established a shipbuilding yard under Maungauika – North Head.

1860
A Naval Artillery Volunteer Corps with responsibility for harbour defence was established at Devonport.

1863
Outbreak of war in the Waikato saw the people of Te Hau Kapua – Torpedo Bay leave Hau Kapua overnight by waka.

1867
The New Zealand Torpedo Corps formed No. 2 Company of the Permanent Militia. They had responsibility for construction and maintenance of harbour mine defences.

1878
The first of the ‘Russian Scares”. There was a real and present fear of the invasion and dominance of the Imperial Russian Navy.
Torpedo Defence – “A field of submarine mines should be laid across the harbour in the most convenient situation to prevent an enemy running at full speed past the batteries and up the harbour, to a position out of range of our guns where he could fire into Auckland”.

1885
The submarine mining station at Torpedo Bay – so named because mines were called torpedoes then – was designed by LT Col. Tudor Boddam. A small section (0.06 ha) of land at the South West base of Maungauika – North Head was deemed the perfect location for a mining station.

1904-1907
The Torpedo Bay Depot was operational for a mere three years. Three strings of electro-contact mines were able to be deployed across the harbour, however, it is not believed any mines were laid during this time.

1904-1905
The Russo-Japanese War saw the total defeat of the Russian Navy in the Pacific thus ending any naval threat to New Zealand by Russia.

1907
The submarine mining programme was abandoned and all equipment that was salvable was disposed of. The mining cable was used for telephone cable in Auckland.

1914-1918
The yard was used as accommodation and some of the buildings converted into detention cells. The most famous prisoner was Count Felix von Luckner who was held in a cell for one night after his recapture in 1917.

1920s
The wharf was rebuilt and buildings refurbished. The site was used for Army stores and unloading ammunition for North Head. In 11926 the main building was refurbished as a drill hall.

1930s
The last of the mines and gun cotton were disposed of.

1939-1945
The yard remained in use as an Army store. The Army launch Bombardier was based here and used to supply personnel and stores to and from the various islands.

1958
The site was officially handed over to the Royal New Zealand Navy.

1963
With relocation of HMNZS Tamaki to Narrow Neck from Motuihe Island the sail training whalers were moored at the wharf at Torpedo Bay.

1960-1999
Torpedo Bay was used by the Sea Cadets, The RNZN Sailing Club and the RNZN Band.

2000-2009
Torpedo Bay is used by the RNZN Band.

2010
The National Museum of the Royal New Zealand Navy moves from its site at Spring Street, Devonport to Torpedo Bay and in October is officially opened by Prime Minister John Key.

2020
Restoration of the 19th Century Loaded Mine Store is completed. New galleries and a modern learning space are opened to the public.

Torpedo Bay Navy Museum and Torpedo Bay Cafe at Devonport Auckland New Zealand

Our Experience at the Torpedo Bay Navy Museum

Entrance fees to the Torpedo Bay Navy Museum used to be free for international / overseas visitors. However, during our visit, it has now become $10 per entry (still free for locals). Nonetheless, we found that it is worth every penny because of the restorations, the design and the stories told in the museum itself…

Souvenir shop at the entrance of Torpedo Bay Navy Museum NZ

Post Cards sold at National Museum of RNZN

Reception of Torpedo Bay Navy Museum / National Museum of Royal New Zealand Navy RNZN

The Torpedo Bay Navy Museum shares a link to the Torpedo Bay Cafe. At its entrance, you’ll find some art work as well as the souvenir shop where you can get some nifty post cards and souvenirs. The reception was where we paid our ticket fees of $10 before we proceeded on the self-guided tour of the Navy Museum of the Royal New Zealand Navy…

"Must-See" At the Royal New Zealand Navy Torpedo Bay Navy Museum — “Must-See” At the Royal New Zealand Navy Torpedo Bay Navy Museum

We were also given a brochure where kids can visit various parts of the museum to do a “treasure hunt” and it points out some of the “must-see” attractions at Torpedo Bay Navy Museum, such as:

Remembrance
“Take a moment to remember those in the New Zealand Navy who gave their lives in service to their country”

Abcedarium
“Get into the ABC of the Navy with this rich display of essentials, oddities, models, equipment and much more!”

Mess Deck
“Come and see how sailors used to live, eat and sleep at sea.”

The Wrens
“Around 650 womend served in the Wrens during WW2”

I1 gun
“Massive gun from a submarine sunk by two small New Zealand minesweepers in WW2”

Ditty Box
“Ditty Boxes kept sailor’s special items safe”

The Boatshed
“19th Century struccture showcasing a range of small boats”

Learning about the modern fleet of Royal New Zealand Navy today at Torpedo Bay Navy Museum

History of the sailors of the Royal New Zealand Navy at Torpedo Bay Navy Museum

We started our tour of Torpedo Bay Navy Museum at an extension to the Navy where the overview of the modern Royal New Zealand Navy of today is shown. At the same area, we also learnt about the incorporation of the Wrens (women’s naval service) in the RNZN where they were doing professional roles such as communications and “finger printing” of the enemy forces during the wars.

Guns and relics inside Torpedo Bay Navy Museum Royal New Zealand Navy

Roles of the Royal New Zealand Navy shown in the Torpedo Bay Navy Museum

During our walk around the museum, we learnt about an historic battle at River Plate where the Exeter and Ajax caused the German warship to scuttle off the coast of Uruguay. The German Captain remarked then, “Better a thousand live young men than a thousand dead soldiers“. There were also lots of relics and personal items displayed in Torpedo Bay Navy Museum, showing the personal side of each sailor of RNZN. In particular, the Neptune recording in Egypt was particularly heart-wrenching. Before the ship was to be destroyed, the crew had made a recording to be sent home for the Christmas and New Year. These greetings could not be heard at the museum some 80 years later.

As above so below - Sculpture by Helen Pollock at the Torpedo Bay Navy Museum — As above so below – Sculpture by Helen Pollock at the Torpedo Bay Navy Museum

About As above so below Sculpture by Helen Pollock at the Torpedo Bay Navy Museum

We also saw an interesting sculpture that protrudes out of the museum known as “As above so below” by Helen Pollock

“Helen Pollock’s sculpture – As Above So Below, honours and commemorates the struggle and sacrifice of the New Zealanders who served at sea during World War One.

The intention is to evoke the nobility of their endeavours, their commitment and courage – as well as, at times, the appalling situations they had to endure.

As Above, So Below is an ancient phrase used to explain how the world works. Everything no matter how big or small is interconnected. Whatever happens on any level, emotional, physical or spiritual, affects everything else.

In this context, it references the camaraderie and the interdependence of sailors at sea, and elements around them.

The sculpture is anchored by its central feature, a Jacobs Ladder, echoing the staircase to heaven that the biblical patriarch Jacob dreamt about. It is a biblical and universal symbol of personal transformation. the ladder has the rusted and weathered appearance of a well worn ship’s ladder one that must have had another “life” prior to this. The rungs have sagged with use they are worn but enduring. By association, the ladder represents the journey through life and beyond.

The ladder in As Above So Below therefore signifies the “bridge” between heaven and our earthly realm.

On a ship, sailors climb the Jacob’s Ladder to reach the highest point of the upper mast. Climbing it requires daring and fortitude. The ladder implies a challenging journey, it suggests aspiration, reaching upwards from the deck to the highest point of the vessel – and equally downwards into the depths of experience. The ladder weeps silently. A trickle of tears runs down its face into the reflective pool. Collectively, the tears create the pool which appears incalculably deep, a well of remembreance.

The ladder and the arms stretching upwards areflected downwards into the seemingly infinite pool. The arms represent the physical life force.”

After the visit, it was time to check out Torpedo Bay Cafe!

What We Had at Torpedo Bay Cafe (next to Torpedo Bay Navy Museum)

Torpedo Bay Cafe next to Torpedo Bay Navy Museum Devonport Auckland New Zealand

By the time we’ve visited the Torpedo Bay Navy Museum, the Torpedo Bay Cafe had already had quite a crowd. Thankfully, an elderly couple gave up their seats after they were done and we were able to enjoy the views of the bay while enjoying our meal this day…

Views of Torpedo Bay from Torpedo Bay Cafe next to Torpedo Bay Navy Museum

This time, we ordered the “signatures” – well, at least to us. We ordered the Eggs Benedict ($19.5) and the Fish and Chips ($23) along with an Iced Latte ($6.5) for a grand total of $49…

Torpedo Bay Cafe Review Eggs Benedict ($19.5)

Torpedo Bay Cafe Review Fish and Chips ($23) and Iced Latte ($6.5)

We enjoyed both signatures that we ordered from Torpedo Bay Cafe. Particularly the Eggs Benedict because the eggs were large and fresh with the signature runny yolk! The bacon was so flavourful as well. Fish and Chips on the other hand was decent with a nice crispy batter. Lemon slice, salad and tartare added the tanginess to the taste.

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All in all, we had a fantastic day out at Torpedo Bay Navy Museum. The National Museum of the Royal New Zealand Navy was definitely well thought through, covering the history, people and the modern fleet that it has today. We particularly enjoyed the relics that have been so painstakingly and beautifully restored and preserved within the museum. Of course, the final dining experience at Torpedo Bay Cafe also rounded up this trip perfectly. If you’re in Auckland and have a day or two to spare, why not hop on over to Devonport to check out Torpedo Bay Navy Museum to learn about the RNZN history and savour an excellent Eggs Benedict at Torpedo Bay Cafe!

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